I became enchanted by Tibet since I read Heses's Siddartha in high school, and with Kailash since I started practicing Yoga, more than thirty years ago. I definitely placed it on my ToDo list twenty years ago, after reading phenomenal article in National Geographic Adventure:
http://www.ece.uah.edu/~jovanov/tmp/Kailas_Adventure.pdf
The holy walk around Mount Kailash is known as Kora, Tibetan word for circling around sacred object. Outer Kora is 52 km long starting at Darchen at elevation 4,600 m with the highest point of Dolma La pass at 5,630 m. According to the rules, Inner Kora with the accesss to the particularly sacred places at the base of Mount Kailash is allowed only after 13 cycles of Outer Kora. Every 12 years, Inner Kora is allowed after a single Outer Kora.
Since I'm not getting any younger, and next year, year of the Horse, when Inner Kora is allowed after a single outer Kora is expected to draw huge crowds, I decided that this is the year for my spiritual journey.
June 2, 2025
Leaving from Belgrade to Dubai and then Kathmandu, Nepal.
Nice view of Ada Ciganlija and boat restaurants on Sava river
Flying over mountains in Turkey
Dubai at night
Clouds over Pakistan
Villages nested on crests of mountains in Nepal
and Kathmandu
Greeting committee for from Himalayan Glaciers agency, Suresh
Thames, touristy, but very nice part of Kathmandu
Testament of skills of technicians and engineers!
Kathmandu from the local peak before sunrise
Himalaya's range is waiting for me
Hills in the south
Thursday June 5, 2025
Orientation, introductions, and joint dinner.
Our group consists of 22 people, 12 Indians from Australia, 9 Indians from America, and one Serbian from America. Everyone was interested why would I come to such trip, of huge spiritual significance fir Indians, and I told them that visiting Shiva's abode is a must for a Yogi, and they loved it.
Our trip was very well organized. Each group member received a duffle bag and had to place all necessary items in a single bag. E.very bag has a number, and that allows staff to efficiently distribute the bags in rooms, since they are traveling in a separate track.
Celebrating the beginning of the tour:
Friday, June 6, 2025
Visiting prominent spaces in Kathmandu: Lilitpur (separate post) and Buddha Stupa.
Very nice illustration of phases of the process
Natural dies used
Process of making paint
Saturday June 7th, 2025
There is only one road between Kathmandu and south Tibet.
I wanted to know what is the distance between Kathmandu and Chinese border, but this is what Google Maps recommended as the best solution :)
Suggested road goes through Thailand, Laos, and South China.
However the road, or however you want to call it, does exist! It is 160 km long, and takes 6-7 hours by SUV/AWD vehicle. It is extremely hard or impossible to pass with regular sedans. Road virtually does not exist for more than 60 km, it is frequently washed out by land slides and strong streams.
You have similar situation for 20 km in South China, but China is putting huge efforts to make a lasting solution with very well engineered support system.
Road through Nepal goes through small villages, with vistas with breathtaking views. It is a chance to see real, authentic life in small villages.
on the road
Panoramic view of the pass
Ordinary people still love old King and his family killed in 2003. They say that some family members were killed elsewhere and their bodies were brought to the same place to stage mass killing, they didn't like Kings brother who was removed from power and install Republic.
On our way to the border we saw at least a 100 new Chinese electric cars (~40K$) BYD (Build Your Dream) that are imported to Nepal and driven on the same (terrible) road.
New BYD electric cars imported to Nepal.
Another annoyance are dozens of security/police check points on both sides of the border :(
We spent first night in a small village 20 km from the border. Beautiful environment, wonderful river and nice trails.
Sitting Buddha on top of the hill protects the village.
A swinging bridge for walking over wild Himalayan river.
Original solution: using plastic bottles to protect LED lights on the street from elements and insects :)
Our typical meal during the trip
Sunday June 8th, 2025
Although 20km from the border we still needed almost an hour to get there.
And then, waiting begins :)
There is a huge difference between Nepalese and Chinese border. It is clear how much China invests in the infrastructure.
Nepalese border
Chinese border
Transfer of our bags across the border.
On
the other side of the boarder we are greeted by the Tibetan team, our
guide Tenor, drivers, and other staff. They were excellent help, always
willing to help us find the solution.
Tenor helped me
to buy Chinese SIM card. One month, 50 GB, for approximately $16. Very
good coverage, even in remote locations. I then use my unlocked phone
with SIM card as a hotspot, and continue using my latest phone with
second phone as a hotspot. Unfortunately, China doesn't allow any social
networks, therefore use of VPN software for personal communication, or
even any Google software (e.g. Gmail); is absolutely necessary.
City of Kerung, elevation 2,800 m, beautiful town surrounded with gorgeous mountains
Hiking a hill outside of the city:
Beautiful Buddhist temple dominates downtown public square
Spirit of the city is alive, a dancing party on Sunday evening stayed until 10:30 pm. Tourists and kids are welcome to join, elders are watching the party with pride. A wonderful, authentic event.
Monday June 9th, 2025
Drive from Kerung to Saga, elevation 4,600m. We will stay at 4,600+ meters for the next seven days.
Road from Kerung to Saga is 480 km. Landscape is very bare and Mars like. As my friend
said, there is nothing to generate oxygen for thousand of miles around.
Wonderful waterfall close to Kerung
After reaching the plateau, landscape became totally different:
Brahmaputra river
Some streams are surprisingly full of life
but the rest of the road landscape is like this:
Our first high elevation hike
Lunch in nature:
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